My New and Much Improved Home Sweet Home

After a year of living in what I would lovingly describe as an Ethiopian starter home, I decided I needed a change. My old place served its purpose well. It was close to my school, had some lovely shops near it, and lead to some good laughs. But there were just too many things I did not like about it to stay there another year. I could not have handled another year of sharing a shint bet with up to 15 people, having strangers stare into my room as I simply watched a movie, or.. how shall I put this... sharing a thin wall with a female entrepreneur who worked from home.

So I moved into what I would argue is the best living situation in all of Peace Corps Ethiopia. Sure I do not have a spare bedroom, western toilet, or hot shower. But it is still the best. I now live in a compound that only has four other residents: a mom, a dad, and their two daughters. I am the fourth Peace Corps volunteer who has lived on the compound, which means they are totally unimpressed by my forenji-ness. There is a wonderful sense of family here that I have been missing for the last year. I drink coffee and eat with the family several times a week. I help the little girls with their English homework. I watch Ethiopian dramas with my landlady. They have a hot shower I am free to use whenever I wish (in fact, last time I asked to use it, they looked at me like I was being silly and said, "We are family. This is your home too.") To summarize, it is perfect. Absolutely perfect.

My adorable little patio. The rooms I live in are free standing, meaning I do not get woken up in the morning by loud neighbors. I have used the table and chairs a few times, but I am really looking forward to the end of rainy season. It will become a delightful place to read, play cards with friends, or play with the kids.

My front room. This is where I spend most of my time because it is where the food and TV are (that's right, I have a TV now. I thoroughly enjoy just melting my brain with some MTV). I still have my comfy bench and a new spare bed. I can actually have people over at my house and offer them a place to sit! The doorway leads into my bedroom...

This was my attempt at a 360 view of the room. Like before, I have tons of pictures up on my walls, along with all the cards I have received over the last 16 months. I opted to have a mosquito net this time around. It is nice to fall asleep with a little piece of mind knowing that no critters can get me.

And finally, people seemed really interested last time around, my shint bet. There are some amazing features I'd like to point out. First, the door does not close. Really Laura, that is a good thing? Yep, it never smells, I do not have to touch anything, and the rain washes it out for me. Secondly, I am pretty much the only one who uses it. You know you have been in Peace Corps too long when you brag about having your own private hole in the ground. The family has a western toilet they usually use. But every once in a while, someone uses it. Which leads to amazing feature number three, there is a water tap in the shint bet. What does that mean!?! Well, it means hypothetical reader, that there is no excuse for people to not clean up after themselves. It is always clean in there and that is all you can really want in a shint bet.

If you want to see more, feel free to come visit!

Teddy Afro Needs to Come to Asella

I miss going to shows.

I miss feeling the surge of excitement as the band takes the stage.

I miss being in an overcrowded space with strangers. And I miss, by the end of the set, feeling an unspoken bond with those strangers.

I miss being in a room with people who know my next favorite band before I’ve even heard of them.

I miss being surrounded by people who make me feel like tattoos are the status quo.

I miss singing along to all the songs with reckless abandonment.

I miss watching hundreds of people feel free enough to sing without shame or self-consciousness.

I miss a singer who is more conductor than singer.

I miss seeing little kids with their parents and knowing he or she has no chance but to grow up to be like the rest of us.

I miss dancing around the tiny few inches of space I have.

I miss clapping so hard my hands hurt by the end of the night.

I miss yelling lyrics like they were written for me.

I miss the idiots in the mosh pit.

I miss the thoughtless people crowd surfing.

I miss the progression of a perfect set list.

I miss the beginning of an encore; when everyone in the room knows they only have a few songs before this moment is over.

I miss walking out into a brisk night as the cold wind hits the sweat I was completely unaware of.

I miss LA dirty dogs.

I miss having no voice and sore legs the next day.

I really miss going to shows.

2013 Bekoji Camp GLOW

Quite fittingly, the week before I came back to America to do nothing except rest and eat, I worked myself to the point of exhaustion. The week left me so drained, I knew I deserved a trip back to the glorious and strange world of America.

Over the week of July 8^th- 13^th, nine fellow Peace Corps volunteers and I held a Camp GLOW.

 

The aim of Camp GLOW is as simple as it is noble. Take a few girls from each of our communities and teach them skills that will enable them to be more successful in high school and university. Camp GLOW literally stands for Girls Leading Our World and we strived for nothing less. Over the course of six intense days, the twenty one girls from nine different communities were taught about leadership, public speaking, looking to and becoming role models, HIV/AIDS prevention, journaling, building self-confidence, nutrition, and countless other topics that will hopefully stick with them for the rest of their lives. While there are thousands of pictures and stories from the week, I’ll try to give you a glimpse of what Camp GLOW Bekoji was all about. 

When the campers arrived Sunday, they were scared and intimated. Most only knew one or two other girls. This was the first time many had been away from their families and town. And perhaps most terrifying of all were the ten, bizarrely behaving, forenjis. The girls spent most of the evening shyly getting to know each other through conversations and small, informal activities. But no matter how nervous they were, no one in Ethiopia can turn down a dance party.

The next day was filled with sessions designed to build self-confidence through skits, presentations, and art projects. Though it was only day one, every girl was brave enough to come up and talk in front of the group at least once. 

Working on their skits

Creating a self-esteem collage of their aspirations

Over the course of the next four days, the campers were exposed to countless activities, which aimed to challenge them to become stronger individuals. To highlight a few:

We had a girl’s night where we painted fingernails as we discussed awkward topics like puberty, body image, good qualities in boys/men, and good qualities in friends. It was one of the more fun nights that included a lot of laughter. We PCVs really had to reach back to pull all of the embarrassing stories from our adolescents from the recesses of our minds. But an amazing thing happens when one person tells an embarrassing story or fear they had: everyone has had the same feeling or experience. All of the campers really opened up and that willingness to take the risk of sharing something personal carried through to the end of camp.

This is also the night I got my hair done. I think I pull it off.

We had a rockin’ obstacle course that taught the girls the importance of teamwork and supporting each other. The idea of an obstacle course is foreign in Ethiopia. Over the course of a few hours, the campers went from apprehensive to competitive and excited. At the end, each person went through the course once. The best female adult time was about 58 seconds (I’m still a little bitter; our esteemed camp director beat me in the final by one second). The best male time was 52 seconds. Finally, the best camper time was something insane like 45 seconds. There is a reason the people of this country are known as amazing runners.

 

We had ever-so-fun condom demonstrations and activities. The girls were all willing to learn about a subject that is pretty taboo in Ethiopia. Again, this just goes to show how open and amazing all of our campers were.

 

The group went on a hike to the top of Gelema Mountain. No one knew how successful we would be since it was cold, looked like rain, girls had different ability levels, and some were fasting for Ramadan. Every single girl made it to the top. It was an impressive feat that made each girl feel proud of herself and the group. 

A group of musicians and actors came to preform in front of the girls. They are called the Hiwot Band, meaning Life Band. Some of the members are HIV positive and they go around the area singing, dancing, and preforming dramas to educate people on HIV awareness, prevention, and stigma. There was a dance party, drama, and then a question and answer session with the group’s leader, who has had HIV for decades. While it was all in Amharic, the one thing I could understand was all the girls came away with a different perspective on people living with HIV.

 

Finally, the last night, we had a huge bonfire. The girls took time to say what camp had meant to them, thanked special people, burned pieces of paper that represented their fears, and then tried an American requirement for any bonfire: s’mores. The climax of the night was when everyone started singing and dancing around the fire. It lasted for what felt like hours and left me feeling about 100-years-old as those young girls just keep going. At certain points, a song would be sung in honor of a specific person. That person would have to run around the fire as everyone sang for him or her. Without a doubt, running around that fire with everyone sing about me is a memory I will keep with me for the rest of my life.

         Literally… some happy campers!

Selflessly enduring the heat to roast those marshmallows.

Group Shot

One of my favorite pictures of the night: one of my girls from Asella decided all the PCVs should dance together, holding each other’s hips. But I was so deep in my sugar high (hence the marshmallow in my mouth), I just couldn’t be stopped.

There were far too many amazing activities to include them all. Most days, we started at 8:00am and ended with a session after dinner lasting until 9:00pm. It was an amazing experience to say the least. Everyone involved took something away from camp and I have no doubt that we made a difference in those girls’ lives.

I have heard some people say that this is what every week of Peace Corps should be. We should always have the feeling that we made a difference and be able to see it. While that would be wonderful, there is nothing I would change about this experience. And, to be honest, I could not have keep up with the suicidal pace we were working at. We started planning this camp four months before any girls arrived. There were countless trips to the venue to make sure everything was on track. Someone is still writing a report to justify to PEPFAR why their money was well spent. To put all the work into perspective, the first receipt is dated May 25^th and the final one is dated September 6^th. But despite all that work, it was worth it for moments like these…

One of my proudest Peace Corps accomplishments!

 

Rockin' chicken quesadilla, Spanish rice, and a salad complete with sides of salsa, sour cream, and guacamole. I may have embarrassed myself by eating it all, but that is how we do in Peace Corps.

Asella Waterfall

The last thing I said on this blog was that there would be no more long breaks between entries. That was a few weeks ago and there has been nothing since. Oppps. (I know I've said this before, but I promise, it wont happen again!) Between holidays and Peace Corps trainings, I have not had a lot of time to keep up with the blog. For the sake of posting something, I went on a hike in good ol' Asella and some kids lead me and a friend to this amazing waterfall. While it is hard to get perspective, it was probably 80-100 feet tall. Pretty amazing. May this hold you over until I actually write something...

Things I've Learned While Bored

·      The human body can withstand an entire jar of Nutella with no ill-lasting affects.

·      It is okay to talk to yourself if you just need to have a nice conversation in English for a change

·      You can dribble a soccer ball in a 6-foot circle for roughly 90 minutes before realizing what has happened

·      It is possible to time travel. If you stare at a wall just right, hours will fly by.

·      You can be envious of Bill Murray in Groundhogs Day because at least he has amenities.

·      Making sound effects while doing the dishes makes it fun

·      You can kill approximately 17 seconds by counting all your teeth with your tongue

·      You can never sweep your floors too much

·      When walking around town, any Roots album goes along perfectly with the flow of people, vehicles, and animals

·      Based upon my singing and dancing abilities while alone in my room, I’m pretty sure I should have been a rockstar. All I’m lacking is musical ability, songwriting prowess, and general talent.

·      If you walk around long enough, someone will invite you to coffee

·      It is not always a good idea to take a coffee invitation just because you’re craving coffee

·      Insanity workouts make the day go by roughly 14% faster.

·      The longer you can sleep in, the less time you have to find a way to kill

·      It is impossible to be unhappy while making tortillas

·      Once every two weeks, a majority of children seem to have a “scream day”. All they do is scream. Happy or sad. Excited or lethargic. They just scream.

·      Sitting with your vegetable lady not only increases her business, but also is just a pleasant time

·      If you order one drink, they will never kick you out of a café

·      The maximum I can read is about three hours at a time

·      I have yet to find the maximum amount of time I can watch movies and TV shows without tiring.

·      When a fellow volunteer starts a phone conversation “Hey (three second pause), how’s it going?” it means they are just as bored as you. And that in less than an hour, neither of you will have minutes left on your phones

·      If you think someone back home may be awake in the middle of the night for some odd reason, they are not.

·      Waking someone up back home with a surprise call is only appreciated during the first three months of a Peace Corps service.

·      Number of times going to the post office does not increase the number or letters or packages.

·      Whether it is the best day of Peace Corps or the worst, it will end in a matter of hours. Keep some perspective  

Computer, America can make you bigger, stronger, faster!

My mid-service trip back to America came and went. It was a wonderful time filled with all the things I have missed over the last 14 months. I ate an embarrassing amount of food yet felt no shame about it. I spent time with family and friends. I met seven kids that have some claim to call me aunt (or will when they can speak). And I spent countless hours playing with The Colonel*  

But the most important thing I did, in terms of the duration of my service, was getting my computer fixed. If I may be cheesy for a second, I would like to give a huge thanks to my parents. I would not have been able to get my computer working without their help. They are the greatest parents a kid could ever ask for and while it’s impossible to send a new computer to Ethiopia because of taxes and such, I feel like had I asked them to, there is a serious chance they would have flown halfway around the world to hand deliver one.

Anyways, I am thrilled to have the computer back and I have a long list of topics to write about. I want to finally post pictures from Fasika (aka, the greatest Peace Corps weekend), show off my new place, recount my adventures in a strange land call America, and brag about the summer camp nine Peace Corps Volunteers and myself put on. But for now, I thought I would answer some of the most commonly asked question during my visit home. So, sorry for the hiatus, I’ll try to make up for it!

Do you like it there?

Yes, I love it there actually! Annoyingly, about 50% of the time, my response was followed up with the person asking “Really?” Ethiopia is an amazing place. It is not the most romantic of destinations in Africa and you wont see safari animals here. But if you ever get the chance to visit Ethiopia, take it. I have completely fallen in love with this country. There are things I disagree with and drive me crazy, but the culture, people, food, landscape, and history more than make up for it. 

How hot is it?

Ethiopia has an extremely diverse climate. A region in the northeast of the country called Afar averages the hottest year round temperature in the world. Towns along the mountain ranges can be painfully cold. I personally have gone to the town of Bekoji, about 45 minutes away from Asella, slept in four layers of clothes with three blankets and still been cold*.

But, when people ask me this question, I assume they mean where I specifically live. Asella has a wonderful “weather condition”. Throughout the year, the temperature ranges from 60-75 degrees. A majority of the time, you are looking at cozy cocoa weather.  The seasons are opposite from America. The rainy season is usually June-September (though this year it started in March and has not quit). October- February is the hottest time where it can get to be a sweltering 75 degrees. March-May is ordinarily cool with a little rain here and there.

What is the food like?

Fantastic. I have made no attempt to hide how much I love Ethiopian food. You are on the Internet right now reading this blog. Instead of reading my ramblings, use your favorite search engine to find the nearest Ethiopian restaurant. Turn off your computer, and go there. Why are you still reading this?

Welcome back, I hope you enjoyed your meal! Ethiopian cuisine is perfect for a vegetarian, vegan, or carnivore. There are a lot of lentils, chickpeas, and veggies cooked for hours with onions, garlic, and spices. Chicken, goats, sheep, and cows are commonly eaten, especially on holidays. But if you really want to know about the food, go find some.

What do you do at your school?

My official Peace Corps title is Primary School Teacher Trainer. My aim is to work with the teachers at various elementary schools in the area to develop and improve their English and methodology skills.

What do you actually do at your school?

I hang out a whole lot. I drink tea with teachers everyday. There is not a lot of interest in formal trainings, so most of the work I do has a pretty informal feel. Last year, I was able to accomplish some stuff I am proud of and hopefully the upcoming year will be the same.

I have a weekly club with teachers at my school where we practice speaking English in various ways. I also try to sneak some methodology training in there. For example, we practiced reading aloud to work on reading skills, pronunciation, and public speaking. I picked sections from the textbook for them to practice and then successfully bullied them into read aloud to their classes more often. Through this club, I also set up a Pen Pal program between teachers in Ethiopia and teachers in America. Both groups seemed to really enjoy it, so hopefully that will continue.

I observe and co-teach with teachers as often as possible. While schooling in Ethiopia has come a long way in recent years, there is still a tendency to have the kids silently work all period. I try to push teachers to include more active learning techniques in their lessons and support them in any way possible.

Last year, I had an English club for students, but it was not very successful. I was not excited or motivated to run the club and I think the students read that and as a result, they were not excited or motivated. A teacher from my school and myself were trained on a new program to Ethiopia called Grassroots Soccer. It uses soccer as a vehicle to teach kids about HIV and its prevention. I am pretty excited about it and look forward to devoting a lot of time to an important cause/program.

What is your average day like?

My average day during the school year starts at 8:30 or 9:00. I wake up, cook/eat/clean up breakfast, and arrive at school a little before the teachers’ 10:00am tea break. During the tea break, I will set up whatever I am doing that day. If I am observing a teacher, I will find him or her. If I am running a club, I will pimp it out to everyone. If I am doing nothing, I’ll just hang out and guilt the teachers into practicing English. Once I have finished the day’s task at the school, I will either go home or to a café for lunch. The post-lunch coffee is a daily requirement at this point. From there, I will either go back to school to work with another set of teachers, or do stuff around town. In the evening, I’ll cook dinner, try to weasel my way into a dinner invitation, or go out with friends. If I am out, I leave wherever I am by 9:00pm so as to avoid a run in with a hyena.

It is a pretty relaxed schedule but it often changes without notice. It is not abnormal to get to school to find out I am leading a training I know nothing about. Or, equally as likely, there is no school that day. Some days I will not go to school at all, others I will be there from 7:30-4:30. It took a while to adjust to the inconsistency, but I’ve grown to love the fact that every day is an adventure.

What is the religion?

Again, Ethiopia is fairly diverse but I will assume people want to know specifically about my town. The majority of Asella is Ethiopian Orthodox. There are also many Protestants and Catholics. The number changes depending on who you ask, but I would guess Asella has a Christian population of about 65%. The remaining 35% of the population is Muslim. These two groups coexist in Asella happily. Muslims will go to their neighbor’s house for Christian holidays and Christians will go their neighbor’s house for Muslim holidays. Though that is not the case for all people and all towns in Ethiopia, this has been my experience.

What animals are in Ethiopia?

I would not recommend coming to Ethiopia for a safari. As the country has developed, animals like lions and hippos are becoming rare. Ethiopia has many bird species from what I hear. There is the Ethiopian wolf that is kind of a big deal. There is some sort of wildcat that lives in the mountains of Bekoji and I would imagine throughout the region. There are various types of primates. All over the country there are hyenas and that’s terrifying. In my time in America, I learned there is a misconception about hyenas. The Lion King painted a very inaccurate picture. Hyenas are huge. My head could fit in their jaws. They are the size of donkeys. They will absolutely kill and eat a person without much trouble. But yeah, Ethiopia doesn’t exactly have a sexy collection of animals. 

Are you glad you went there?

Completely. A common Peace Corps slogan is “The Hardest Job You’ll Ever Love”. The past year has been, without question, the hardest of my life. But the past year has also probably been the best. I have met people, seen things, and accomplished goals I will forever take pride in. Relationships with people back home have grown and become stronger. I have been stretched and change in irreversible ways. Simply put, I am a happier and stronger person for my time here.

*The Colonel

*In fairness, I am a wussy when it comes to the cold. And heat. It is a really good thing I ended up in Asella now that I think about it.