Time for Semester Exams

This one will take some explaining...

Ethiopia is in the Africa Cup of Nations for the first time in 31 years. It is a very exciting time for football fans and attending their first game on Monday night was definitely a highlight of my time here thus far. At some point, I will go into detail and explain what it is like watching the National team play here. But for now, I was forced to have a second lunch after a huge first one so I can hardly function I am so full.

The photo of the day is my favorite so far, but it will take some back story. As mentioned, Ethiopia has not qualified for the Africa Cup for 31 years. As a result ETV (the Ethiopian national channel) has always received the rights for the tournament for free. This year, since Ethiopia is in it, they would need to pay something like 20,000,000 birr to obtain the rights. In the weeks prior, it was rumored that they had/would reach a compromise somewhere between 15-18,000,000. Since the game was on, it was easy to assume they had reached an agreement. Then, in the second half of the game, this came on the screen. And the announcers made a big fuss about ETV committing piracy and shaming them. This screen shot is from the international broadcast (thanks to Abel Asrat for the photo!) so every African country and anyone lucky enough to be watching in the world saw this.

As a result, ETV is a hero in Ethiopia. For those who could read and understand the English during the game, there was laughter and cheers. Everyone else figured it out afterwards. Coming from a country that is so uptight about piracy- where it feels like the government investigates teenagers illegal downloading music better than murders- what an amazing breath of fresh air. So I must say, I feel in love with this country a little more Monday night because of this hilarity.

Self-Supplied Cruel And Unusual Punishment

As I sit on a bench in my house killing time before going out to watch Ethiopia play their first Africa Cup of Nations game, I am enjoying my newest favorite pastime: torturing myself.

I have heard there is a point, in a Peace Corps Volunteer’s service, where the PCV stops driving him or herself crazy dreaming about American food. I foolishly thought I had reached this point. For the past 2 or 3 months, while I had cravings, I felt I had reached a point of contentment, where care package goodies were enough to tame my food desires.

Then, about a week ago, I started smelling bacon. It is important to note that bacon is only sold at two stores in this country- neither of which are in Asella. Muslims and Ethiopian Orthodox are not suppose to eat pork and since those are the two biggest groups in my town, I can say with confidence there is not a single pig or any pork around me. Yet, hand on a burrito, I swear to Carne Asada, I could smell bacon.

From there, it all went downhill. In talking with someone back home, we came upon the subject of pizza. I delved into a ten-minute rant about what type of pizza I would want if I were home. zPizza is cheap and within walking distance. Nice thin crust, a salad, and a Pepsi with ice (WITH ICE!- I don’t remember what that stuff even looks like). But New York/Barros are higher quality and way more greasy. Then I thought about the glory of Tony’s pizza- deep dish with more cheese on a small than I will see over the course of my 27-month service. I may or may not have shed a single tear at the mere thought.

I talked to my mom to find out my family had dinner at BJs pizzeria and brewery. I literally made her tell me what everyone ordered and then placed an order of my own to the universe.

Last night, I daydreamed for 30 minutes about eating at Taqueria de Andes in Yorba Linda. I was debating about what I would order and then had the brilliant (cannot wait to test it) idea to combined Ethiopian style of eating with Mexican good. I dissected the logistics of ordering a burrito and an extra tortilla. I’d open the burrito and use the extra tortilla like injerra to scope up the goodness. The bite distribution would be incredible. Some bites you want meat, others heavy on beans and rice is better. This allows you an ideal bite, every time!

This is my life now. This is what I fantasize about. The moral of this: when I come home in about 6 months for a visit, you will likely be able to find me by going to the greasiest, most unhealthy restaurants you know. I am going to do some serious damage at all my favorite eateries. I bet I can gain 15 pounds in 3 weeks. It is going to be amazing.

Buna!

As predicted, I have become a coffee snob. I have taken to roasting and grinding my own beans. They look glorious!

Ugghhh... I hate traffic.

My New Office

One of the hardest things about being a Peace Corps Volunteer is struggling with the feeling that you are not accomplishing anything by being here. An English Teacher Trainer- my official role- should “help teachers improve their command of English and the methodologies they use in their classrooms”. While that sounds like a noble cause (and it truly is) myself and Volunteers like me will rarely see tangible results of our effort. If you build a well and help provide better drinking water, you can stand back and look at that well in triumph. In teaching, there are very few opportunities to actually see the betterment you have created. (I always love making grammatical mistakes while writing about the process of improving the English language. But this is English not Latin, so I will split infinitives as I damn well please!)

Recently, well months ago actually but things move slow here, I was given an office. By this I mean, they were proud to have a computer room (complete with 3 computers that do not work) and told me I could use it as an office if I wanted to. That clearly shows they do not know me well enough because as far I am concerned, this room is mine now. I have spent a lot of time and effort fixing it up and creating an environment where proper learning can take place. And at the end BOOM, something tangible that I can reflect on and feel pride in!

Here is when I first walked into the room. Spiders probably outnumbered me 100-1. The first steps were: using an entire can of bug spray, washing the walls and mopping the floors. The entire time, school staff seemed impressed that a delicate “forenji” like me could properly clean! 

Once it was clean and I felt safe from spiders the size of my fist, I was able to start rearranging and putting things up on the walls. As someone who has never taught at a primary school, I stole many of the ideas from fellow volunteers. But there is something satisfying about the fact that if someone walked into the room, they would be under the incorrect assumption that I know what I am doing! 

 

 

Finally, the last note worthy thing about my fine new office is what I found while cleaning out old cupboards. I preface this with- this cupboard had not been opened for years, maybe decades.  The reign of corporal punishment has, for the most part, long since ended. But still, I could not help but gasp when I saw an old relic of that time. This is by far the most terrifying switch I have ever seen (as if I have a ton of experience with switches or something). It has a wooden handle about a foot long and then 18 inches of pure leather cut like a whip. This could, and I am sure did, do serious damage.

When things seem unnecessarily difficult and I just want to yell at the ridiculousness of some aspects of this place, this will be a nice reminder of how far they have come.

I was being rained on as I took this, oh Ethiopia!

They kept offering me one. I don't know how I had the willpower to say no.

New and Improved!

As time goes on and I get used to this crazy life, finding things to blog about is harder and harder. My average day is actually incredibly boring and uneventful. But, this blog is the only way I communicate with some people. If I do not write about what I am doing, some of you fine folks have no idea what is going on with me. I would like to think surely that means people are staying up at night wondering, but I know better.

Regardless, it is my goal to start writing a little more. In addition, I have decided to steal the idea of a brilliant fellow PCV and start a "Photo of the Day". The photos will be anything that catches my fancy in that moment. Due to Internet availability and such, my goal is to post a picture at least every other day. So even if I have not posted a story or update recently, you can check to see some picture of what I have been up to.

Today, a picture of the Bole area in Addis Ababa. It is like no other area of Addis; you can get a cupcake and go to the movies- enough said. This is standing in an Orthodox church looking at the magical Edna Mall.

My first American visitor!

It was not until the holidays rolled around that I realized, at 24 years old, I would be spending my first holiday season away from home. While it was difficult to spend holidays that fill me with memories of loved ones 9,000 miles away, it turned into a fantastic experience. Most of this enthusiasm is due to the fact that I had my first visitor come to Ethiopia, Eric Elliott. My boyfriend of 7+ years was an amazingly great sport through it all. I tried to ease him into the Ethiopian experience a bit. We stayed in the capital city of Addis Ababa for a day and a half, and then ventured to a resort in a town called Nazret for poolside fun. Finally he was exposed to the way real Ethiopians live as we spent four days, including Christmas, in my town of Asella.

The first day of our adventure together, we explored Addis Ababa. While this town is a haven for me due to the amazing food and hot showers, Eric described it has breathing in cancer. Environmentalists have yet to make it out this way apparently. We had breakfast at an adorable cupcake shop (remember, I tried to ease him) that makes me feel as though I was at Cup Cake Bites in North Carolina! Here is Eric’s first meal in Ethiopia: some of the best French toast in the world.

Yep, that dope is the guy I've been missing...

From there, we went to the National Museum where bones and replicas of bones, found in the Afar region of Ethiopia, are displayed. If you are interested in anthropology, hopefully the Afar region sounds familiar. It is basically where the oldest and most precious anthropological remains have been found. Lucy was found in the Afar region, which is considered one of the greatest finds ever. She, or her replica- I like to think it is her- are on display at the National Museum. Afterwards, we went to an art gallery and finally to the Red Terror Museum. The museum is all about the dictatorship that was in power decades ago. The best was I can describe it would be like going to a Holocaust museum in the States.  Fascinating and powerful, but definitely not an upper.  Through all this travel, I manage to only get us lost once. I was quite proud of myself.

To pick up the mood, we went to a Mexican food place. This was entirely for me. A guy coming from Southern California to Ethiopia does not need or care about Mexican food, but I do. But at that magical place is where Eric learned one of the greatest things about Ethiopia: all soda is served in glass bottles and usually cold. It may have been the highlight of his trip…

The rest of the night was filled with beer and jazz. We went to a German Beer House where they brew their own beer on site. It is by far the best beer in country. If you are debating coming to visit, allow me to entice you with some pictures of what we can accomplish.

 

The following day we went to a town that is about halfway between Addis and Asella called Nazret. There is a great resort/hotel there called Safari lodge and we, along with four site mates, spent two and a half days there. It was a perfectly relaxing time filled with games, swimming, reading, and eating. There was a special moment when we created a game that consisted of trying to hit a ball in the pool with a Frisbee. Sadly, Eric was not paying attention to what the winner’s reward was and managed to be the victor. Per Stanley Cup style rewards, he was treated to two beers, which were poured into the Frisbee. We probably should have made sure all the chlorine water was out first. Although, it was probably the cleanest, safest water he could drink in country...

 

   After a relaxing few days in Nazret, we headed to Asella. I was able to show off my home and the life I have made for myself here to Eric. The following day was Christmas and for lunch I took him to one of my favorite places to eat Ethiopian food and he had his first real experience with the food here (it took four days, oppps) We ordered a vegetarian dish called tagabeano served with injerra and bread. Eric assessed the food perfectly in saying, “It is like I am eating a mouthful of mush. There is no texture. I should not like this. But the flavor is so good, I cannot stop.” 

Keep in mind that Ethiopian food does not photograph well.

For Christmas dinner, we went to my site mates’ house and feasted on chicken, stuffing and eggplant Parmesan. If I could go back in time, I would eat that meal over and over. Eric was able to experience his first “gorsha” in spectacular fashion.

Afterwards, we went to a local grocery and explained the true meaning of American Christmas. Interpret that however you want! It was a great night that ended in watching Ethiopians have a dance fight. This place never ceases to amazing.

 From there, Eric saw my school and was able to meet many teachers through a club I run. We all sat around a table and wrote questions on pieces of paper. The Ethiopian teachers would ask us questions about American and we would ask them questions about Ethiopia. It was a great exchange that I feel was probably the best way to get a feel for what this country and its people are like. Our last day in Asella, we went on a hike to see the Rift Valley. It is a pretty important place and the nerd in Eric loved it. It also happened to be one of the most expansive, gorgeous views I have ever seen complete with Lake Zewhy (I just threw some letter together because I have no idea how to spell it).

One the way back, we saw countless monkey. The ones just a few meters from us were the little trouble making type. I do not know breeds so allow me to make monkey stereotypes: they are unruly and seem like they would steal is given a chance. I believe Ross Gehler and Indiana Jones had this type of monkey. Across the way, maybe 75 meters from us, there were dozens of huge baboons. I feel confident they could have ripped my arms off wookie style. The biggest one took an intimidating interest in us. We would walk for a bit and then stop to watch them. This big guys was following us, stopping in turn, and never taking his eyes off us. I only felt safe because I am faster than Eric.  

Finally, we headed back to Addis and had a mellow night listening to live jazz once again at our hotel. It was a great time that sadly had to come to an end. Through it, I feel like I was really able to show off a lot of the country and made me realize I have a lot of pride (sometimes) in this crazy place. After having a few days to reflect on the visit, some things definitely popped into my mind.

• This country is a pretty amazing place. We went from eating french toast in a place that seems as American as apple pie, to using a hole in the ground for a potty. The country is so diverse and while in some cases that is a negative, it really makes me feel lucky to have been placed here.
• The day before I come home after 799 days living here, I am still not going to know what is going on most of the time. This is a common feeling and something you learned to live with. As a result, you sometimes feel like you have not changed or integrated into the culture. Being able to experience this place with someone for his or her first time really showed me how far I have come in just seven months. Things that are perfectly normal daily occurrence, Eric reminded me are complete unusual and as far from normal as possible.
• It is not the Peace Corps related work (i.e. schools or NGOs) that makes this experience worthwhile or bearable. It is exchanging culture with people you never normally would have known existed. It is about making friends and being content to spend the holidays in such good company while so far from your American family.

So to summarize, come visit!!!!