Earth Day

For Earth Day, my sitemate, Leslie, and I had grand plans of building a permagarden with the aid of some adorable kindergarten students. She had the know how, and I had access to a kindergarten. The only hiccup was there was no school on Earth Day because of Ethiopian Easter. Not to be detoured and deprive small children of a chance to play with forenjis, we postponed our Earth Day celebration a few days and were all set.

The idea of a permagarden is pretty simple. It is an ultra sustainable garden that can be build for a very low cost. Many environment volunteers here in Ethiopia teach low-income families how to make these gardens so they can have food regardless of income. We decided to build the garden on this particular school because it serves OVCs (orphans and vulnerable children) in the area. While they are too small to go home a build one, when parents or friends come to pick up the kids, they will see the garden and hopefully become interested. It is like we are planting seeds in people’s minds (see what I did there?).

So allow me to walk you through the cutest training I will give in Ethiopia…

Leslie explained how to “double dig” to the adults at the school. It took some explanation, but eventually they got it. Unlike the kid in red on the right, he understood instantly.

Some of the students looked on in vague interest.

We realized we needed to go buy charcoal, so Leslie left me for 10 minutes. She said to make sure they finished digging. Instead, I took on 12 kindergarten students in a game of football. It may have had something to do with the fact the goal was about 4 feet across, but I dominated.

After football, I was hot and had to take off my fleece jacket. Thus began the tattoo routine. Yes, they are permanent. No, that is not Obama, etc. I love my little buddy in red’s reaction.

We needed to break the charcoal into powder, so we had the kids stomp on it. While this was not an effective method, it was pretty cute.

Once the plot is dug, you mix wood ash and charcoal powder into the soil. This absorbs and retains water so the garden is fruitful year around. Here, the students grabbed one handful of ash each.

And they joyfully threw their one handful of ash. I think it was the most fun they had ever had a school.

Leslie mixed the ash, charcoal, and soil together.

Leslie passed out seeds for the students to place in the ground. We planted four different vegetable that will hopefully turn out well.

Our finished plot!

Since the students didn’t learn much from the gardening portion (except 1. Throwing ash is fun and 2. Laura is a football god), we brought them inside for a classroom activity. The students learned Earth related vocabulary and then colored some pictures.

This little man could not figure out what we were doing. He was clearly younger than the rest and extra adorable. I’m pretty sure after a while he knew he was suppose to be coloring, but was just too cool to do so.

I stayed in between the lines and everything!  

The class with their finished worksheets!

My Last Ethiopian Holiday

It is said that on Ethiopian Easter, or Fasika, some two million animals lose their lives in this country. As someone who spent years of her life not eating red meat, I feel it is the perfect place to make up for lost time.

I love Fasika. And I don’t love it in a Peace Corps sort of way. I don’t eagerly wait to see displays of culture. I don’t use the holiday as an opportunity to discuss the similarities and differences of America and Ethiopia. I don’t even particularly consider the religion ramifications of the day and how they relate to me. I love Fasika because it represents everything that is right in the world. Family, friends, and communities come together to eat, drink, and be merry. Every Christian home is full of food and everyone is welcome. Myself and other volunteers routinely receive countless offers to come into people’s homes and eat as much as humanly possible. People go from house to house in their small neighborhoods to create the best “crawl” experience in history.

One of the major aspects that make Fasika so special is the months leading up to it. In the Catholic faith, there is Lent. You give up something to show your devotion. In Ethiopia, what you are giving up is picked for you. For all Orthodox Christians (probably 50% of Asella), there is a 55-day fast. People are not allowed to eat any animal products for that period. In essence, they go vegan for two months.

Side Note 1: Ethiopians love meat. If you ask someone what their favorite food is, they will likely respond with chicken stew (called doro wat). Milk in coffee is a wonderful addition and the average Ethiopian drinks coffee three times a day. Most Ethiopians love to put butter in everything. Seriously, everything. It is a hair product here. To take all of that away from people is a serious hardship.

Side Note 2: The one advantage to the Fast is the vegan food here is incredible. There are such delicious dishes that don’t need meat. Lentils, chickpeas, kale, potatoes, are all cooked to perfection during the Fast because people are desperate for tasty food.

The Saturday before Fasika, I made plans to go to a large animal market filled with thousands of goats, sheep, and cows. Abel, Leslie, and I met at a coffee house near the Asella bus station. Ordinarily, being near the bus station results in a lot of unwanted attention. This day was completely different. There was an amazing atmosphere in Asella. Everyone was happy knowing tomorrow would be the big day. As I was walking to the coffee house, I ran into a Rastafarian who I have a bit of a history with. He has been known to yell rude things and follow forenjis all around town. On this day, he said hello, asked how I was, and then wished me a happy day. As we walked to the market (maybe 25 minutes), everyone was in a festive mood.

The animal market itself was a great time. I went last year before Fasika and it was mass chaos. This year was much more orderly. They had specific section for different types of animals. People showed off their livestock with pride. And, just like last year, eventually Abel and his brother Dagim separated from us to get a fair price. As Leslie and I waited for them, an older man tried to sell us his best sheep. A fair price for the animal would have been around 2,000 birr ($100), but he was willing to part with the animal for the low price of 4,000 birr. What a steal! Sadly, Abel and Dagim found the winner (or loser from its perspective) before we could jump on the opportunity.

Later in the day, Leslie and I headed to Abel’s house for the beginning of the celebration. In the time since we had parted, they had proceeded to kill and completely butcher the goat. Abel made delicious t’ibs (small, bite-sized pieces of meat) cooked with onions, pepper, and all sorts of spices. It was delicious and the best meat I had eaten in months (and that is a true compliment because I cheated often by eating meat during the 55-day fast). We stayed late into the evening and enjoyed a few cocktails. Abel recently went to visit his brother in Dubai so we were able to see pictures from his trip. Dubai seems weird. There is so much money there that the police drive Ferraris. I wouldn’t have believed it unless I saw the pictures. It was a great night filled with a lot of laughter and food- I couldn’t have asked for anything more.

At 11:00am the next morning, it was my landlady’s turn. She had prepared a mass amount of doro wat. Doro wat is one of my favorite foods. Not just in Ethiopia, but ever. This doro wat was made extra special because I had a strained relationship with the chicken in it. He lived in a coop right outside my bedroom window and had been waking me up at 4:00am every morning for a week. I was not sad to see him go. In fact, my only regret is that I was not the one to kill him. But doro wat is ridiculous. It takes a day to make. For every chicken, the recipe calls for 3-5 kilos (7-11 pounds) of onions. You let onions, garlic, ginger, and all sorts of other wonderful ingredients stew together until perfection. It is served with the onion base, a large piece of chicken, and a hardboiled egg. Faven piled my plate high and I was happy to take it down. We had coffee together and then I took a holiday nap.

In the early afternoon, the married couple that used to live in Asella called to wish me a happy Fasika. Joe, being the loving gentleman that he is, preceded to tell me everything he had eaten for Easter breakfast. He ended his rant with, “we ordered so much bacon, we actually just had to leave some on the counter to be thrown away.”  He went right for the jugular. On any other day, this would have been painful. But I instead told him of the doro wat I had just eaten and that I was heading to Tilahun’s for dinner. Both he and I know Tilahun’s cooking is better than all the bacon.

Tilahun’s cooking is always a treat. He is the best chef I have ever been lucky enough to eat from in my life. I have no doubt that if he opened a place back home, it would be all the rage. I eat at his house on every Ethiopian holiday. When my parents came to visit, he cooked an amazing feast and made special dishes for my mom since he slyly found out she loves lentils. Every time I am there, it is the best meal ever and Fasika was no different. He prepared a comical amount of food. When we arrived, we were given bread and homemade butter he had decided to make. The meal itself was incredible. He made some of the best t’ibs I’ve ever had. The doro wat was so flavorful and the chicken was tender. He had homemade cheese that somehow made the doro wat more rich and delicious. And finally, he made his world famous dulet. I don’t want to like dulet. Whenever I think about it, I immediately stop believing that I like it. Dulet is the intestinal lining of a goat or sheep cooked with spices, onions, peppers, and everything else that is good in this world. Oh, and it is usually served “rare”. I don’t want to like it and if I eat it anywhere else, I don’t. But then I take a bite of Tilahun’s dulet and he converts me again. The night ended with Leslie and I reading a story with Tilahun’s daughter Soliana, and, eventually, her falling asleep on me. It was a perfect way to end a perfect holiday weekend.

I guess the take away of this entry is simple: there is just no reason to be vegan. Occasionally, vegan food can be prepared well and makes a great meal. But to live that lifestyle forever is silly. Really, it’s just silly. If you are vegan and reading this and getting offended, that’s fine. If you had a proper diet in your system that included meat, you would be able to think straight and see that I’m right. Meat is good. And you know how I know that without being subjective? Tofu or the Ethiopian equivalent, Tasty Soya! If meat were bad, there would not be horrendous attempts at substitutions. The only way I made it through the Fast was by remembering that it would end in a glorious celebration where two million animals sacrifice themselves for the good of mankind. And after all, isn’t that what Easter is really about?

Tanzania!

The second portion of my parents’ trip was an amazing safari in Tanzania. They would see romantic landscapes, sleep in luxurious tents, and witness some of the most awe-inspiring sights the world has to offer. So naturally, I invited myself.

Peace Corps has a program in Tanzania so I expected the country to look and feel much the same as Ethiopia. That was a naive viewpoint and proved how little I have apparently learned by travelling. Tanzania is a poverty stricken country but has utilized their natural resources to create a growing economy greatly based on tourism. As a result, many of the places we travelled catered to western visitors and it was obvious the money was pouring in. Ethiopia has some incredible sights and activities for tourist, but Ethiopians have not learned to take advantage of them properly. Recently, there has been a trend where Ethiopia is becoming a hip place to visit- here’s hoping! But for now, when you think of African vacations, you probably think South Africa, Kenya, or Tanzania.  

When we arrived, our game driver was waiting for us with every aspect of our next 6 days planned. Over the course of the week, we went to Tarangire National Park, Manyara Lake, Serengeti National Park, and the Ngorongoro Crater (the single most underrated place on this planet). It was a full schedule but allowed us to see everything.

The country was lush and green. The rainy season was just beginning to start, which made for some pretty epic landscapes

But let’s get down to it. People usually go on safaris to see animals. I was talking to my Peace Corps Ethiopia Country Director about the trip before I left. As a man who has spent decades of his life living and working in Africa, he has been on more safaris than he can count. He told me the first is always special in an indescribable way. He set the bar impossibly high because this man is a talker and has never been unable to describe something in the two years I’ve known him. But he was so right. I knew I would enjoy the trip, but I couldn’t imagine how much.

If you have a bucket list, put an African safari on it. I was extremely fortune to be able to tag along with my parents, but it showed me that seeing wild animals in person is something every person should strive for. My mom and dad embody this. My mom had a lifelong dream to go to Africa to see animals. Looking back, I think that is why she forced me to join the Peace Corps and move to Africa. When we saw the first animals, she was overcome with emotion. This was a dream decades in the making and there we surreally were: in the middle of a herd of 40 elephant or looking a lion in the eyes. My dad coming into the trip, on the other hand, was something a step above indifferent. He was excited, but he is more of a beach/water type of guy. Yet if I had a quarter for every time he was speechless because of a sight or could only manage to say the words, “this is unbelievable” or “this is just too amazing”… I don’t know how to finish that sentence. I’d have a lot of quarters, I suppose.

During the safari, we were lucky with both the weather and the animals we saw. Looking at the photos, I still cannot believe we were so close to some of those animals. I think we saw them all. Like literally, all the animals in Tanzania. The Big 5, 25+ lions, hundreds of zebras, scores of elephants, and so many other things will always live in my memory.

During the 6 days, we saw so many zebra. My dad asked the astute question of, "why didn't zebras get domesticated like horses or donkeys?" The guide didn't have the answer, but I agree with Norm: walking by zebras carrying loads of water or sticks would be enough to make me never leave Africa.

Warthogs are the unsung heroes of Africa. We spent so much time just watching these adorably ugly creatures play.

I feel like giraffes are the hipsters of Africa for some reason.

While we saw tons of elephants, the highlight had to be when we were in the middle of a herd of forty. It was incredible to watch them interact. The age range was babies to decades old and they truly behaved like family.

The elusive rhino!

Hippos running out of water is one of the funniest things a human can witness in their life.

I got heated when talking about hyenas. We have them here in Ethiopia and they will kill a person. No one seemed super alarmed by them, especially as one walked 5 feet away from me as I was eating dinner. I argued they are scary and Tanzanians responded by telling me stories of hyenas eating other hyenas and how unstable they can be. They kind of just proved my point.

The two above photos are the same lioness. She was watching the three hyena to ensure there was no funny business. As she walked from the fallen branches and climbed up the tree, she was maybe 3 feet away from our car. As she sat in the tree, she was easily close enough to jump in the open car. She looked us right in the eyes and didn't care. Probably one of my most humbling experiences.

Another time, we saw a herd of 10 lions feasting on a buffalo.

It was a hot day and the only shade around was that created by our car. When you don't have to use zoom to take a picture of a wild lion, you know you're impossibly lucky.

This is a jackal. They're adorable. They weight maybe 15 pounds and are scared of everything. I want to get my dog, Tobey, one as a pet. 

Overall, the safari portion of the trip was just incredible. It was such a privilege to be able to see such exotic animals in their element. There is a recognition that goes along with being that close to wild animals. It makes you realize how inspiring nature can be and how much it should be protected. It gives you a feeling no zoo will never be able to capture.

The last leg of our trip was a few days beachside on the island of Zanzibar. I never realized how much I loved the ocean until I moved to a landlocked country for two years. Zanzibar is a large island off the coast of Tanzania. The two merged into one country decades ago but still operate separately. From Arusha, we boarded a tin can that had wings. To say that I did not enjoy the flight would be an understatement. I am not sure I breathed the entire time- I was too busy waiting for the plane to crash.

The time spent on the island was full of relaxation. One day, Norm went SCUBA diving and my mom and I went on a tour of a local spice farm. But otherwise, we just enjoyed some beautiful scenery, amazing and endless food, and delightful company.

A good time was had by all.

Janet Comes to Africa

A while back, my mom and dad came to Ethiopia for five days and were able to catch a glimpse of the life I have been living for the last two years. I had a great time showing them around and introducing them to the people I call family now. In keeping with the theme of other people writing this blog for me, I asked my mom to write a recap of her time in Ethiopia. The italics and photos are my additions, which explains their cheeky tone. Enjoy!

Why couldn't the Peace Corps have sent my daughter to Belize? I've been there and loved it. No, Laura had to request Africa and was assigned to Ethiopia, lucky me. Well, it turns out, I was lucky. I got to go to Asella, Ethiopia and visit her. I got to see how she lives, meet her friends, eat the food she eats and yes, even use a shint bet.

I was very apprehensive about going on this trip. I knew that Laura wanted me to visit and I didn't want to disappoint her, but couldn't we meet someplace in the middle, with a toilet?? I've never been on a trip where I couldn't understand the language, read a sign, or even recognize and pronounce the food I was eating. After 19 hours of traveling, Norm and I landed in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.  Even before the plane landed I was in tears. I was so close to seeing Laura and couldn't believe I was going to be able to hug her (top 5 hugs of my life). After going through customs, we had to get our luggage and as I looked through the window, there was my beautiful daughter holding a welcome sign.  Hugging her, laughing with her and just hanging with her was the highlight of the trip.  

After a day in Addis and a wonderful night at the Safari Lodge, we headed for Asella. While in Asella, I stayed with Laura while Norm stayed in a hotel nearby. She and I stayed up late into the night, talking and giggling. I am very proud to say that I successfully used the shint bet, several times. Cross that off my bucket list. 

Even though Laura told me the population of Asella was 100,000, it was much bigger than I had pictured. The main street was paved and filled with small shops, where you could buy just about anything you needed (not anything that is cheese or bacon). These shops were nothing like a modern market in America. If you needed vegetables, you went to one area. If you needed meat, you walked a few streets over for that. If you needed kitchenware, you found another street where that was located. When I first arrived in Asella, I became emotional. I thought, “My daughter lives here? This way of life is hard.” But I quickly realized, it wasn't a hard way of life at all, it just didn't have the modern conveniences I was use to. Living the simple way of life that Laura lives and not having all the modern conveniences was very attractive to me. I imagine it to be much less stressful than the busy life I lead. With that being said, I like my toilet, hair dryer and Target.  

It was important to Laura that we see her school. As we walked for 30 minutes on dirt roads, I was grateful it wasn't the rainy season. Touring Laura's school was interesting. She has spent many hours putting together her office. The walls are filled with her hand made posters. Even though someone used her office and created a mess, I felt quite proud standing in her office looking at all she has done. 

The children had exams that day, so even though the school was filled with kids, it was quiet. The classroom walls were made of mud, straw and then coated and painted. Some rooms had several desks, some had just a few, but all had chalkboards. One group of rooms stood out because they looked modern, like something in America. I learned those rooms were the special education rooms. A wonderful Canadian group called Christian Horizons had built the beautiful rooms.  

While in Asella, we were able to visit the Christian Horizons’ offices and tour a preschool and two orphanages. Most of children in the orphanages had lost parents to HIV/AIDS. The children proudly showed us their beds with smiles on their faces and were happy we had brought chocolate for them. I was impressed with the work that Christian Horizons does. They work hard at teaching the children life skills to become successful members of society and independent adults. 

Seriously, the work they do is incredible. If I have learned one thing while here, it is that there is a huge difference between aid and development. At Christian Horizons, they teach men and women of all ages the skills they need to be self sufficient later in life. This organization embodies the old proverb, “If you give a man a fish, you’ll feed him for a day. If you teach a man to fish, he will never go hungry”. If you are a charitable type, I’m not sure your money could go to a better place.

One part of this trip that I will always cherish was meeting the wonderful people who have become Laura's family. Her fellow volunteers, Joe, Lisa, and Leslie are creative, funny, intelligent, incredible people (expect for Leslie, she’s the worst). They have sustained Laura in good times and difficult moments and I fell in love with them. Laura's landlord, Faven, prepared a wonderful meal for us. After dinner we even enjoyed a dance party given by her two daughters and Laura (these shoulders don’t lie).

Faven preparing a coffee ceremony

The next night, Tilahun prepared an amazing feast for us that was so delicious, I over ate to the point of being uncomfortable (aka, what happens every time a PCV goes to Tilahun’s house). Abel and Tilahun are wonderful men who have become friends with Laura and kept a watchful eye over her while on this Peace Corps mission. I am forever grateful to these two gentlemen.

Tilahun preparing goodness

I can't write about everything we did. But, know that we played Ethiopian Bingo. Possibly caused a divorce while trying to buy two glasses we drank homemade honey wine from. Lived without water for two days. Attempted to visit the Peace Corps office, but were turned away because of a meeting (if you’re reading this senior staff…). Talked about our bowels and laughed until our stomachs hurt. 

There aren't words to say how proud I am of Laura. She has created a wonderful and rich life for herself in Ethiopia. Her home is filled with love and is referred to as, Chateau Schickling by fellow volunteers. Her Peace Corps friends enjoy her hospitality frequently. I don't know how I got so lucky to be Laura's mother. She is intelligent, self sufficient, funny, resilient, and so BRAVE. Travel to Belize? No way, I'll take Ethiopia.

She said too many nice things. In truth, I'm a doofus. Here I am giving a tutorial on how to use a shint bet.